Good Libations columnist Gordon Kendall

• Gordon Kendall's column, "Good Libations," runs monthly in Extra. He welcomes readers' questions and comments about wine, beer or spirits.

Good Libations

Columns

• Roll out the barrel of bourbon-finished brews
• Winter cocktails can help knock the chill off
• Try dry wines with an open mind
• Education the goal of wine magazine
• Column archive

PlateUp bloggers and columnists

• Meet other PlateUp bloggers and columnists for more on food, drinks, savings and shopping

In an ideal world, buds would sprout from grapevines in the spring and turn into fragrant flowers after a few weeks. Grapes would follow the flowers and ripen to perfection throughout the summer months.

In the fall, the vintner who had been sitting back watching the vineyard develop would pick perfectly ripe, succulent grapes, ferment them into wine and bottle a pure, delicious product.

Unfortunately, we don't live in an ideal world.

An army of pestilence lies in wait to create havoc in the vineyard. Mold, mildew and other fungal infections thrive in humid conditions and can cause rotten grapes or damage vines. Bacterial maladies, such as Pierces disease, carried by a grasshopper called the glassy eyed sharpshooter, can kill the vine. Flying insects and nematodes (microscopic worms) in the ground can lay the vineyard to waste.

When the winemaking process begins, wild yeast in the air can mingle with the wine, causing unpredictable fermentation characteristics that may result in undesirable flavors. Once the fermentation has finished, oxygen in the air can react with the wine and cause it to become brown and unpalatable, just like an apple that has been sliced open and left sitting on the kitchen counter.

An ancient concept

Winemakers have been battling these agents of destruction since antiquity and have developed many countermeasures over time. Most vintners schedule chemical sprayings in the vineyard and add certain substances during the winemaking process.

But for health-conscious consumers who want organic products, wine is no exception. Currently, there are two types of wine made from organically grown grapes. Their labels state: "Made with Organic Grapes" or "Organic Wine."

There are a fair number of wines displaying "Made with Organic Grapes," which are allowed to contain up to 100 parts per million of sulfur. These wines must be made from grapes that have been certified organic by the U.S. Department of Agriculture's National Organic Program or regional organic certification boards.

Organic growers eschew chemical fertilizers, pesticides and insecticides and use natural materials instead. Manure is often employed as fertilizer. Weeds are mowed instead of being sprayed with chemical herbicides. Often natural predators are introduced into the vineyard to deal with specific pests.

The use of Bordeaux mixture (copper sulfate) and elemental sulfur is allowed. A sulfur solution sprayed on the vines constitutes an effective pesticide. Conscientious growers cease spraying with sulfur two weeks before harvest so that the wines will not exhibit sulfur's signature struck-match aroma.

Some vintners feel that organic vineyards are more robust and healthy and will produce better grapes in a difficult vintage. Organic vineyards avoid Genetically Modified Organisms.

A few years ago, the National Organic Program decreed that anything labeled as "Organic Wine" had to be made from grapes certified as organically grown and that no sulfur dioxide (sulfite) could be added during the winemaking process. Ninety-nine percent of all wine made in the world contains sulfites. Because of its anti-oxidant properties, sulfur has been used since Roman times to preserve wine.

Sulfites maintain the wine's freshness, aroma and color, and only miniscule amounts (about 30 or 40 parts per million) are necessary to preserve the wine. The winemaker can use sterile filtration and possibly pasteurization to preserve a nonsulfite wine, but the heat used in pasteurization can ameliorate the wine's flavor. Sulfites are used in much greater quantities to preserve dried fruit and instant mashed potatoes. A small amount of sulfite often occurs as a natural byproduct of the fermentation process.

Biodynamic farming is a step beyond organic viticulture. In this system, vineyard activities are undertaken with respect to the rhythms of the cosmos and lunar cycles. This will be the subject for a future column.

If you want to go organic, look for wines made from organically grown grapes. There are some tasty choices out there. If you are allergic to sulfites, stick with organic wine.

Gordon Kendall's wine and spirits column runs monthly in Extra. He welcomes comments and questions at gmoney007@cox.net.

Tasting notes

Available locally from the Roanoke Natural Foods Co-Op

*Prices are approximate and subject to variation

Musaragno Pinot Grigio 2006

Made with organic grapes

This Italian white wine has a light straw color and fresh aromas of pineapple, grapefruit and tropical fruit. The palate is crisp and dry with pineapple flavors, notes of nettle and just a trace of a sour edge. No oak flavors were detected. Serve with crab cakes and remoulade sauce. $10

Frey Sauvignon Blanc Mendocino 2005

Organic Wine

This wine has a light golden color and muted aromas of figs, like someone pressing figs far, far away. The palate is reminiscent of a sugar water solution with a drop of lemon juice and a bit of acidity. The fresh vibrant fruit characteristics that would be displayed in a good Sauvignon Blanc are not present here. The flavors are flabby and weak. Drink it if you must. $12

Badger Mountain Seve Columbia Valley 2006

Made with organic grapes

This white wine is blended from Semillon, Chenin Blanc and Riesling grapes certified organic by the Washington State Department of Agriculture. The wine has a light straw color and exhibits fresh citrus and lemon peel aromas. The palate is dry, crisp clean and light. Serve as an aperitif with a shrimp cocktail. $11

Musaragno Malbech Veneto Orientale 2006

Made with organic grapes

This interpretation of the Malbec grape manifests itself differently than in Argentina's warm climate. These grapes are grown in Northern Italy's cool Veneto region, so the wine has moderate alcohol. The wine displays a deep crimson color and aromas of red fruit, spice and cigar box. Bright cherry-tinged fruit jazzes up the palate. The pleasant finish features moderate tannins. $10

Vinecol Malbec Mendoza 2006

Made with organic grapes

Here is a full-bodied, robust red that displays a deep brick red hue. There are Port-like aromas of dark dried fruits and English pipe tobacco. Flavors of black fruits, prunes and tar dominate in the mouth. The tangy finish displays lingering tannins. Age worthy. Try it with a charcoal grilled steak seasoned with salt and ground black pepper. $12

Stella Organics Shiraz 2006

Sulfite Free Organic Viticulture

This South African wine displays a dark ruby red color. Unfortunately, the aromas remind me of the men's room at a highway rest area. There is some raspberry fruit on the palate, but it is buried under caustic acidity and ferocious tannins. It may improve with age, but why waste the money? $12